in Bali, the architect and sculptor that helped to design a beautiful Ubud.
ago. It was my very first day in Bali, the morning of the ceremony "Saraswati"
and I needed to buy a sarong before I'd be allowed into any temple.
At that time, my rented bungalow was located on Jl. Gootama, just a dusty, dirt
road with small groups of men squatting and spitting on the roadside, while petting
their cocks (the ones with feathers) They were getting them ready for a favorite male
pastime of cockfighting, which continues to be popular even today.
I walked a few minutes and "accidently" arrived at the Lempad's small sarong
shop. The shop on Jalan Raya is called "Yudes Toke", which is in front of the
family compound, adjacent to their small art gallery area. On that day, I honestly
felt like I had been adopted by this generous family. After my sarong purchase,
the girls carefully dressed me up in their tiny bedroom, wrapped the material
tightly around my hips, loaned me one of their kabaya lace blouses and a sash,
so that I was dressed properly for the temple ceremony.
They Sent Me To My First Balinese Temple Ceremony.
While I felt like a school child having just been groomed by loving parents, they
sent me off walking on my own to the temple for the Saraswati celebration. It felt
like I was 5 years old again on my first day at school. The only thing missing was
my school lunch box and a thermos bottle.
"Just follow the trail of women who are wearing sarongs and balancing the offering
baskets on their heads", they said. Afterward a couple of hot, thirsty and awesome
hours at the ceremony, I managed to return my dehydrated self back to the Lempads'
house, where I gratefully returned their clothing and received my own. I must have
looked hungry because they offered me some lunch, which was a banana leaf plate
topped with a mound of Nasi Goreng, (Indonesian fried rice), accompanied by a cup
of sweet syrupy tea. At that time, everyone ate with their right hand, rather than
using utensils and to me, it always felt rather slimy and unclean. Today in Bali,
using one's hand to eat is still very common, but you will occasionally see a
Balinese use a fork.
As if one ceremony wasn't enough for me, I was then invited to yet another huge
ceremony, which included several 100s of people later in that evening. Although
thrilled, jet lagged and near heat exhaustion, I didn't want to miss a ceremony. The
lesson I learned quickly in Bali was that everything takes a great deal of patience.
After going to both ceremonies, all within the same day on my first day, it seemed
to me I had at least a week's worth of new cultural activities and people.
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| Inside the Lempad family compound, Ubud, Bali |
They Generously Gave Me a Lempad Painting.
A couple of years later, while paging through my tour book, I finally discovered
by reading a page on the artist "Lempad", that the family who befriended me was
the legendary Lempads family. I matched up their name to the oil painting that they
had given me which was signed, "Lempad". At the time it was given to me, they
hardly knew me and yet let me chose any painting in the gallery, in the same way
that their grandfather used to give away his paintings. Of course, I was being overly
practical because my first thoughts were to chose a small painting that would fit into
my suitcase. Although it was signed "Lempad", it could have easily been painted by
another family member.
I felt so lucky to be immersed by this family, who were ever so kind, again much
like their Lempad grandfather. From the very first day that I stepped foot on the
island, I felt as if God was looking out after me. Or perhaps, it was the magic of
Bali that lured me and laid out the red carpet wherever I went. I thought it was
interesting when I talked to other tourists who told me they had similar experiences
and in fact, there have been several books written on the same topic.
stepped out of my bungalow 20 years ago, when I was privileged to meet and
spend priceless time with his grandson and family.
Lempad was a well known Balinese artist that lived to the ripe old age of 116
years. He didn't appear to have any diseases as one might expect for his many
years and he simply died of "old age". It's not known exactly the date he was
born, but it was around 1862 and he finally died in 1978, on a day he had chosen
well in advance.
In Bali, the age of 116 years old is extremely unusual, especially at that time
because the average age expectancy for a man was only 60 years old. According years. He didn't appear to have any diseases as one might expect for his many
years and he simply died of "old age". It's not known exactly the date he was
born, but it was around 1862 and he finally died in 1978, on a day he had chosen
well in advance.
In Bali, the age of 116 years old is extremely unusual, especially at that time
to 2010 statistics, the age expectancy increased to 70.67 years.
Jarkarta Post News
Unlike in some countries, the elderly in Bali are revered and honored, carrying
with them an aura of wisdom and memories of times past. Living to an old age
is uncommon, especially in Bali's harsh tropical climate, where disease has long
been rife and medical treatment poorly available. However, the Balinese do not
seem to be overly obsessed with having a long life, like they do in other countries.
Perhaps this is because the Balinese expect to be reincarnated soon after death
and then to start a new life within the same extended family. This belief offers
much peace for the family and certainly seems like a more comforting way to look
at life and death!
Of course, it would be a nightmare if you were born into an abusive or horribly
dysfunctional family and had to do it all over again with the same family!
with them an aura of wisdom and memories of times past. Living to an old age
is uncommon, especially in Bali's harsh tropical climate, where disease has long
been rife and medical treatment poorly available. However, the Balinese do not
seem to be overly obsessed with having a long life, like they do in other countries.
Perhaps this is because the Balinese expect to be reincarnated soon after death
and then to start a new life within the same extended family. This belief offers
much peace for the family and certainly seems like a more comforting way to look
at life and death!
Of course, it would be a nightmare if you were born into an abusive or horribly
dysfunctional family and had to do it all over again with the same family!
Lempad's Secret of Longevity.
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| Second Wife, Lempad at age 116, and Son |
According to John Darling's research that was written up in his 2014 book
"Lempad Of Bali":
" Lempad was often questioned by others to tell them the secret to his
longevity. He told them that as a young man, he visited an old respected
sage who gave him some wise advice. The sage told Lempad that if he
maintained a simple life, kept clear of politics and observed his sometimes
demanding responsibilities to the community, he would live a long and
fulfilled life."
"During the many chaotic years in Bali, which included invasions by the
Dutch and the Japanese, as well as rivalries between villages, Lempad
retreated into a meditative state and produced almost no works of art. At
that time, Lempad's family was sure that he would soon die. But he later
explained that the disarray of the world obliged him to turn inwards in
search of personal serenity."
When he was well into his 60s, Lempad began to reinvented himself and started to
do ink drawings, for which he became famous, in addition to his earlier architectural
masterpieces. During his later creative years, he was prolific with unique drawing
creations that were infused with Balinese culture and created for tourists rather than
the locals.
Based on results of Lempad's long life, he certainly did an excellent job in following
the sage's advice! Looking at the whole of his life, perhaps his secret to longevity
was a combination of many things: Creating beautiful artwork and reinventing
himself at 60, following the sages advice of keeping life simple, spending years
meditating in silence during the Balinese political years and therefore staying out
of politics, and being a major contributor to the Ubud community, while well into
his 90s.
do ink drawings, for which he became famous, in addition to his earlier architectural
masterpieces. During his later creative years, he was prolific with unique drawing
creations that were infused with Balinese culture and created for tourists rather than
the locals.
Based on results of Lempad's long life, he certainly did an excellent job in following
the sage's advice! Looking at the whole of his life, perhaps his secret to longevity
was a combination of many things: Creating beautiful artwork and reinventing
himself at 60, following the sages advice of keeping life simple, spending years
meditating in silence during the Balinese political years and therefore staying out
of politics, and being a major contributor to the Ubud community, while well into
his 90s.
Lempad's Art.
Lempad created many great works in his lifetime. He was an architect, a stone
sculptor, and an artist who produced hundreds of linear drawings, built a beautiful
Ubud temple, and many palace sculptures. As a prolific artist, he helped transform
Ubud into the beautiful village that it is today. He befriended and spent many years
living with the royal family while they utilized his skills and creativity. His style
evolved over the years into a very fluid style. Museums Puri Lukisan and Neka
Museum currently have an extensive collection of Lempad's drawings.
Museum Puri Lukisan, Ubud, Bali
Neka Museum of Art, Ubud, Bali
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| Lempad drawing, "Dancer Emerging From Trance" 1937 |
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| Lempad drawing, "Kecak Dance" 1939 Ink, cinnabar and gold leaf on paper. |
Lempad's Architecture.
Pura Saraswati: This temple were built in the 1950s by Lempad at the command of
Ubud’s prince, in honor of Saraswati, the deity of learning and knowledge. It is set
in a water garden, with a lotus pond as the centerpiece with fine carvings by Lempad.
 |
| Pura Taman Saraswati, Ubud, Bali |
Puri Saren: The grandeur of Ubud’s royal palace dates from the 1890s. Lempad
is responsible for the palace walls and the carved split gates (Candi Bentar), at both
the palace and Saraswati temple.
He Lived A Fascinating Life.
Lempad was a very generous man and was known to often give his paintings away
with no expectation in return. At the age of 20 he married a woman who was unable
to bear children, which then resulted in his marrying her younger sister, with the
three of them living harmoniously and raising their 5 children. Contrary to the
current peaceful times in Bali, there were many years of conflicts and battles
within Bali.
During the same time, there was also much palace intrigue with the rajas or kings
who had as many as 50 wives, all eager for their sons' advancement. Jealousy and
discreet poisoning often took place. Whenever a raja died, many of their devoted
wives would often times throw themselves on the funeral pyre. Supposedly, they
wanted to be with their husband/king on the other side, where they hoped they
would be reincarnated happily together into their next life.
Lempad Finally Announced It Was Time To Die.
During the previous year, he carefully selected an auspicious holy day on which
he planned to die. The day was April 25, 1978, the day of "Kajang Kliwon" known
as a good day to contact the spirits. It was a time when the sun was in it's cycle at
its northern most point close to the sacred mountain, where it is believed the god
and ancestors dwell.
During the evening before his death, he asked his daughter to bring offering to the
temple. Then on his dying day, he called his family together, asked them to bathe
and dress him, bade them farewell and then with his family around him, he let go
of his life. It was an incredible, beautiful example of conscious death.
Then in true Balinese form, there were preparations for a huge celebration. The
entire village became actively involved in creating pieces of art for his cremation
ceremony. To the Balinese people, death is not normally a time of great sadness
but merely a transition within the endless cycle of re-incarnation.
The death rituals and accompanying cremation ceremony paraphernalia needed to
be correct in every way for the successful destruction of his material body and for
his soul's highest liberation.
During his cremation ceremony, the people were seen as joyful, laughing and
having fun, while parading along the road carrying huge pieces of artwork, such
as a bull and a tall tower, with a gamelan band playing music, all the way to the
cemetery. The body was burned and his ashes were released to the sea during the
next morning.
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| Lempad's body was placed in a black bull sarcophagus. |
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| The bull was then taken to the cemetery and torched into flames. |
The video, "Visiting a 116 year old man", shows Lempad and priceless footage of
Bali in the late 70s, with the entire community celebrating his life at the cremation
ceremony.
My Return Visit To The Lempad Family.
The eldest of Lempad's three grandsons, I Gusti Gede Udayana, still lives on the
main road with his wife and family, in the same family compound that is over a
century old. The only grandson who thrived as an artist is Gusti Nyoman Sudara.
At this time in 2014, it had been ten years since my last visit. I think the family
hardly remembered me, but when I showed them copies of our photos together,
their eyes lit up and I was immediately invited for tea. While we sat yogi style
on the family outdoor platform, the wife of Lempad's grandson gave me a page
by page tour of the 2014 large hardback book, "Lempad of Bali", which was
written as a tribute to the grandfather.
Because her English is far better than I ever remembered it and coupled with a
slight improvement of my own Indonesian, it was the first time ever that we had
a meaningful conversation. Lempad's grandson is also a friendly, humble man
who is missing part of one leg, due to being hit as a pedestrian long ago on the
main road. Their two daughters work in the intimate clothing fabric shop in front
of the family compound. It is a small Aladdin's room of jewel colored scarves, silk
sarongs, and laces. It happens to be the same clothing shop where I bought my
first sarong.
Unlike the rest of Bali, time may have stopped for them, or so it seemed to me at
the time of my visit. Their shop continues to be a miniature size and everything in
the family compound looks almost the same as it did ten years ago.
If I had looked further or stayed longer, I might have noticed that the family all had
smart phones and oversized flat screen TVs. For me, that would be too many modern
changes within a short time and it would be very disturbing. But I didn't observe
anything like that and for now, I'd like to keep my illusion that they are an authentic
example of traditional Balinese culture.
How You Can Also Visit The Lempad Family.
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| To visit the Lempads, look for this sign on Jl Raya Ubud, Bali |
Lempad's house can be easily found on the busy street of Jl. Raya Ubud, which is
almost opposite of Nomad restaurant and across the street from the market. There
is no admission fee and it is very casual with their front gate open and friendly.
The family still lives there and it continues to be a traditional family compound
rather than a museum. There are hanging cages everywhere with exotic birds and
roosters, well manicured Bonsai trees, and carved wood art pieces. Although
many things are left in disarray and appears disorganized, the property has a true
Balinese feel to it.
They are a very generous family, following the footsteps of their grandfather
Lempad. Since the home compound is always open and welcoming to strangers,
the family will gladly show you around and answer your questions about their
grandfather.
Be sure to buy something from their shop, like a sarong or a scarf to show your
appreciation. Or better yet, bring the Lempads something from home as a gift,
something to give back for the kindness they have imparted to you and so many
others.
The latest book, "Lempad of Bali" by John Darling. printed in 2014, has a
collection of 500 drawings and essays.
Videos: "Lempad Of Bali"
Part One
Part Two
Part Three
Part Four
Part Five
Five 10-15 minute youtube videos of Lempad and of his elaborate cremation ceremony. You will be mesmerized by the traditional Balinese culture.
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