Return To Bali, The "Island Of The Gods"

My Bags Are Packed For My Return To Bali

Time is quickly sneaking up on me and in just one day, I will return to Bali, known as the "Island of the Gods".   The Indonesian island is one of the few, beautiful, cultural gems left in the world.  It is a place where I always feel at home and amazingly, where my heart is always at rest.  Yet, I do have some trepidation about the changes I will find, with massive numbers of tourists, choking motorbike traffic and no turning the clock advances of technology.  My first trip seemed both magical and mystical, was twenty two years ago, while my last trip was ten years ago. As for this trip, I'm not sure how I will describe it later, but I am simply "open" to meeting the right people at the right time and being led along another Balinese path of adventure, wherever it takes me.

From San Francisco I will take a 12 hour red eye flight on China Air to Taipei, Taiwan, where there is a 3 hour layover, and then a final 7 hour flight to Bali.  Hopefully, my small check in suitcase on wheels, will soon be packed and ready to go.  Spread out on my spare bedroom floor are small piles of items, including 100% cotton sun dresses, a couple of knee high shorts, Keen sandals, a floppy wide brimmed hat, a one piece turquoise swimsuit, a bottle of sunscreen, bug repellent, a black umbrella (rainy season begins) an Indonesian phrase book, assorted, miniature light weight toys for the orphanage, a small bag of baby items for a medical clinic, silicone earplugs (to block out the nighttime roosters crowing) a passport with a 2 month visa, a list of Bali contacts that I hope will still remember me and a several  pink tablets of emergency Pepto Bismo.
 
Since, it is my third extended trip this year, after Guatemala and Colombia/Ecuador, I have to shyly admit that I am making the most off this year and for any lost time in the past. I love the adventure and the challenge of travel more than anything I can think of. To answer the questions that I am continually being asked as I travel alone, "No I am not overly worried about my safety" although I do pack a bottle of pepper spray and "No, I don't plan to be lonely, even if I may alone at times."  Everyone is unbelievable friendly when traveling, like being in another universe.

I don't  know much I will write when in Bali or how reliable their wi-fi will be, but I will try to send out some updates and post on the blog........Sending Love




My 7 Favorite Quotes:

The woman who follows the crowd will usually go no further than the crowd. The woman who walks alone is likely to find herself in places no one has ever been before. 
Albert Einstein

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
Mark Twain

We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open. 
Jawaharial Nehru

Whether traveling far and abroad or close to home, the magic of the land has the power to open doorways and perceptions, and when you return you will most certainly be changed.
Ixchel Tucker

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion, and avoid the people, you might better stay home.
James A. Michener

 So never refuse an invitation, never resist the unfamiliar, never fail to be polite and never outstay the welcome. Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It’s probably worth it.
Alex Garland

A spirit in my feet said go, and I went.
Matthew Brady

Arrived At Homestay 'Rumah Roda" In Ubud, Bali

It Was A Long Flight, But Was Worth It!

After a sleepless 12 hour red eye flight from San Francisco to Taiwan, a 3 hour layover, and a final 7 hour flight to Bali, I arrived at 2:20pm, feeling weary but also felt much anticipation.   To my relief, the arranged driver was patiently standing outside the airport, looking a bit bored and waving a paper sign. I chuckled when I saw my last name badly misspelled as usual.  After climbing into his van, the next 1 hour drive from the airport to Ubud was more nerve wrecking than I ever remembered, while my driver tried his best to avoid the many weaving motorbikes that were pouring out clouds of toxic fumes.

When we finally approached the village of Ubud, I was thrilled to recognize the street "Monkey Forest" road and could feel a surge of energy.  There was a colorful flow of memories from past years and an indescribable welcoming feeling.  I had reservations via email for Rumah Roda homestay, which I researched on the internet as being a very good choice.  It has a traditional Balinese family compound with a three story building at the rear of the property offering 8 guest rooms.



 #24 Jn Kajeng, Rumah Roda entryway, Ubud, Bali

When I entered the homestay Rumah Roda, the family was welcoming and showed me my room
on the 2nd floor, which had a nice view of the family temple and also a peek a boo view of the neighbors properties.  Grandpa was sitting in the center of the compound in a  yogi position,
peeling a mound of garlic cloves and scraping out coconuts. I tried to ask him for a clove but he didn't seem to understand and it didn't seem right to snatch one from the pile.  Grandma was making temple offering with flowers, girls were sweeping with handmade brooms and roosters were still crowing in the mid day.

I slowly unpacked and it suddenly became dark at 6pm, when I took an awesome walk, circling the busy streets of Ubud.  Sadly, some of my favorite cafes and hangouts were replaced with new upscale shops.  But on the up side, I happily found Wayan , my favorite bungalow boy from a previously torn down bungalow,  sitting in his outdoor clothing stall. He was shocked when he saw me and remembered my name.  "Of course I remember you",  he said, "I still have a photo of you posted on my wall at home, and I walk by it everyday". "How can I forget you".    After a short sweet visit with Wayan, I started to feel jet lag and walked back to my homestay, Romah Ruda. I  slept well with ear plugs and woke up feeling amazingly refreshed.

When staying in a traditional Balinese  home stay you will have an experience in observing what happens on a daily basis within the Balinese culture.  The rooms are basic with scant furniture, a few lingering insects who appear to be in meditation while sitting on the bathroom counter top and an old fashioned Balinese version of cleanliness, good but not impeccable.

In the evenings the family may be seen flopped down on pillows, spread out on an outdoor platform

while all together watching TV, a fairly new addition to Balinese life.  They are reserved with basic friendliness but I had some disappointed that it wasn't quite as friendly  as I had read in the reviews. 
I quickly became aware of other guests being shuffled out of their rooms and being moved down the road to another family guesthouse, as to temporarily accommodate new guests.  Hopefully that won't happen to me!

The rooms all overlook a small pool down as well as an outdoor temple cluttered with building supplies and surrounding neighborhood family compounds.  The front entry area displayed a collection of family photos / paintings including one bizarre painting of young frightened girls running in the rice fields away from a man who appeared to boast a large erection. I'm still trying to figure out the feng shui that this particular photo portrays while it hangs proudly in the front entry area.  Someone please enlighten me!

Then there are a few loud, might I say "active" roosters in the immediate neighborhood with one pathetic wailing rooster immediately next door that just doesn't quit.  One of the staff members admitted that it is supposedly an expensive specialty bird that their neighbor displays in a cage.  They all hate the constant rooster wailing and in fact puts out so much bad energy that it gives them bad dreams at night.  But unfortunately, there is nothing she or anyone else can do since the Balinese seem to love their roosters and the variety of songs that they sing.

Rumah Roda pool, Ubud, Bali

The semi outdoor restaurant at the front and up on the second floor is where the included

breakfast is served. It is a good place to meet people from this homestay as well as other tourists
from the neighborhood.

The prices were reasonably priced but unfortunately I found that the Sunday buffet was overly spicy for me which required me to leave the table after the first two bites.  Also it wasn't quite as peaceful as it looked.  There were many motorbikes racing back and forth along the road driven by what look like 10 or 12 year olds.  I suspect that if there is an age limit, it is not enforced.  Needless to say, I learned quickly to say a little prayer and to hug the far side of the road.
I guess every area within Ubud and each homestay comes with their unique pros and cons but I will always come back to Rumah Roda.  The homestay is authentically Balinese and the owners are generous with giving out information about local events, especially when you let them know in advance that you are interested in Balinese ceremonies..

Rumah Roda upstairs restaurant, Ubud, Bali

(Update:  The rooms now all  have AC,  a small refrigerator and a TV. )

First Morning Walk Through the Rice Paddies, Ubud, Bali

As soon as the morning light filtered into my room, I forced myself to get up and out of the door, which is usually difficult because  I am not a morning person.   I headed out to the rice paddies when it seemed that most people were still asleep.  One of my favorite things to do is to take long quiet walks, usually alone, to explore the off beat  paths, when the light is soft and only the sounds  of nature are heard.  There are the cackling sounds of bugs, the chirping of birds and the rushing of water throughout the old Bali  irrigations canals circulating the rice paddies. 

There is so much peace and serenity out in the back roads and fortunately the Balinese are agreeable to photos, like the man above.



Along the path, a man  offered me a coconut.  Silly me, I thought he would climb the tree just like  remember in the past.  But  instead he had several coconuts piled up in his secret hideout. With proficiency, he cut off a slice from the  top and then a slice off the bottom finally inserting a straw, handing it to me with a wide stained tooth grin.  I was told later I  paid him twice too much - 20000 rupiahs ($1.5 dollars) and apparently I forgot to bargain the price, feeling blissed out in the rice paddies.



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This girl is making offering, wafting incense and repeating mantras for the Gods in her family temple.  The dog apparently wants to be part of the ritual.  He is one of the lucky ones, a well fed, sweet little pet,

and one that will not be cooked for dinner.  Yes, in Bali, dog meat may be on the menu but it is usually in the country at local food diners and not in the tourist areas.

These are typical offerings that are created by the women of the house and placed up onto the family alters, at the front entry of the house, on the ground and other locations.  Sometimes, like the one above they add a cigarette, a piece of candy or a can of soda with the intention that  they will make the Gods happy. At the very least an offering is made before each meal.



Walking Along An Awesome Street - Hollywood - Ubud, Bali

Jalan Kajeng, Ubud, Bali

Ask your driver to drop you off on a charming narrow street called
Jalan Kejeng, which is off the main road and a stone's throw away
from  Monkey Forest Rd.  Here you will find many  reasonably-priced
guesthouses and restaurants, and after 30 minutes down the road,
it will  lead to one of the best rice paddy walks in all of Ubud.

What is unique about this street is that it looks a little  the Hollywood
Star's Avenue, "Signature Street".  It is covered with squares of hand
designed square of cement with interesting sayings, hand and footprints
from people al over the world. 





Ganesh,  with an elephant head and human body, is one of the most popular Hindu deities.
He is considered to be god of success and of opening doors.











 

Dressed up and going where?  Usually when they are
this dressed up, they are gong to temple.  But normally,  they
walk to the temple and carry offerings. So, not sure
where these ladies are going.  However,they look like they're
up to having a fun time.
'You Go Girl!"

 Apparently, you can take a tax and meet new friends.
Notice the tight corset that is required to be worn by the taxi driver.

There are many different flowers to enjoy.



Convenient platform for napping and sipping with a friend.

Wedding Make Up Services

I have a hate love relationship with monkeys....and I love this monkey painting! 

A Visit With Wayan, "Eat Pray Love", "Traditional Balinese Healing Center"

Wayan was the healer in "Eat Pray Love", by Elizabeth Gilbert and an actress played her role in the resulting movie.

I did not search for the current 86 year old, toothless, medicine
man, “Ketut Liyer” to have a palm reading.  I understand he can be
rather silly, flattering and funny, often causing one to do some
serious belly laughing with him. (as in laughter yoga)   Nor did I search
for a Hot Brazilian Lover, like Javier Bardem, who in the movie was

discovered by Julia Roberts at a Balinese expatriate party.   

But, I did search for "Wayan", the Balinese 
woman healer and  owner of the “Traditional Balinese Healing Center” in Ubud.
It was only a few perspiring blocks from my homestay.

The center was humbly located on Jl. Jembawan, near the post office
with a faded overhead sign.   Fortunately, I arrived at the clinic
immediately before a torrential downpour rain, the first one in 2
months.  My pathetic, broken umbrella, used previously
only to keep the sun off my face, was keeping me somewhat dry,
except for walking through the nasty looking puddles.

Wayan Nuriasih is a real life character, portrayed in the 2006 memoir
and later the movie, “Eat Pray Love”, which  was adapted from the
book.  In real life, Wayan and author Elizabeth  Gilbert, became
friends through her treatment and interesting discussions about men. 

Wayan  apparently  received a chunk of money  from the film
company, which gave  her some security and also a new mini van.
And she was also able to build a 2 story house, surrounded by rice
paddies, which was financed by the author Ms Gilbert and the
author’s friends.  Thanks to her fortuitous meeting, Wayan has
become a very lucky healer.

Which is so great because she no longer has to  live  hand to mouth, 
like most Balinese.   Although she still works long hours, she
devotes herself to a  line up of clients.  According to an article I read,
she provides free care for the Balinese poor and finds time to support 
her neighbors. 

She seems to have a devoted following and operates on an unpredictable
time frame. One does not make an appointment, but must show up and
wait for an unknown amount of time, which requires a bit of patience.
I noticed that she was assisted at the center by  her daughter “Tutti”
who is an older version of the sweet and adorable girl who played her part
in the movie.  She could be 16 years old?

Wayan  has become known for her ability to accurately diagnose a
myriad of physical ailments and prescribe her version of treatments
for them. For a consultation fee of 400,000 rupiahs, 30 euros or 32 usd
she may ask you what your symptoms are, to write down your birthdate,
looks at your palms and then read your energy intuitively. Afterwards,
you peel off your damp Bali clothes, wrap up in a sarong and climb up
to the mysterious upstairs treatment area. The session might last an hour
or it might last all day long and you pay accordingly.

The treatments  usually include a deep tissue massage of 2 or 3
people at a time working on you,  turmeric teas and herbal scrubs,
a mostly raw food lunch, and recommended herbs, supplements,
nutrition advice and herb packets to take home.  I've read of cases where
her daughter Tutti will drive a client to her grandfather's rural house
(who is also a healer) to remove dark stuck energies or she
might suggest going to a high priest for a treatment and a ceremony.
Be prepared for whatever might happen.

I  was thinking about having the 80,000 rp ($7.00 u.s.d.) lunch which
would have been red rice, sprouts, and assorted raw foods, labeled on
paper with the correct vitamins. But the center’s two small tables were
taken by clients and while the facility was cluttered and cramped, it was
not necessarily a place I'd choose to eat.  

I already knew I didn’t want a treatment because I could not even
think about the idea of 2 or 3 people massaging me at the same
time (6 hands) with the deep pressure with possible pounding or thumping.
That would be a torture treatment for me and I know that it is an
important part of the treatment.  But I'm happy to report what I've learned
here in this blog.  

 I was reminded  that this place is not a luxury spa, but is located
in an old, well used, somewhat run down building with the usual
crawling geckos and the occasional rat visitor.  It is an original
Bali treatment center,  exotic in a strange ancient sense, as if the
walls are secretly whispering their secret remedies. This is certainly
not anything you would ever see in one of those  attractive
advertisements, inside a yoga magazine.

At the time I was visiting,  there were two European girls sitting
at one of the two tables having an herbal tea.  When I spoke to
them they said they had completed the treatment only moments
ago and felt it was a very good treatment.  They both looked a
bit pale, a bit spongy and oily and yes…very relaxed.  I wouldn't
say, however, that they looked radiant.

Other recommended healers can be found by asking at the restaurant,
“Bali Buda”, www.Balibuda.com (directly across the street from
Wayan's treatment center)  or you can have a treatment with Ketut at
”Ubud Body Works". www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com or ask at "Bali
Spirit", www.balispirit.com.

Although Wayan is motherly, caring  and certainly appears to be
genuine in her intentions, I will warn you that I have  read some mixed
internet reviews but most of them seem to be good.

I would recommend anyone going for a treatment to begin by
trying  to remain open to the healing process itself,  to go with the
flow, an open mind,  to breathe deeply and to try to enjoy the entire
Balinese experience. 

​

If you are lucky enough to be spending time in Bali, why not tap
into the beautiful healing, magic that is everywhere present and
particularly during the time of the full moon.  You will probably be
drawn to the right kind of treatment and find the right healer for you,
whether it be Wayan, another healer, or even a traditional healer "balian".

There is so much to offer in Bali.....and that's why I love it so

much here!

(Update: Ubud Medicine man Ketut Liyur died on 6/13/2016 and was said

to be 100 years old.  His family continues to give healings and sings their 

mantras all the way to the bank.)

Ubud Monkey Forest Sanctuary, Ubud, Bali




Monkeys looking innocent.   Are they well behaved or are they cheeky?

The Ubud Monkey Forest - (Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary)
occupies '27 lush, green acres at the lower end of Jalan Monkey
Forest in the village of Padangtegal. Home to over 600 long-tailed
macaques (Macaca fascicularis) which are divided into 4 troups
that occupy different areas of the forest. 

http://www.monkeyforestubud.com

According to Hindu belief, the  monkeys are the holy protectors of
the temple of the forest, preventing evil spirits from entering. 
However, they are also a daily nuisance, stealing shiny objects like
jewelry, cameras, cell phones off the and occasionally even biting
them. Plus they run rampant on the streets stealing from shops and
restaurants.  The Balinese will never hurt them or restrict them,
because they are considered holy and it would be bad karma to do
so.


I visited a Balinese temple with monkeys hanging out of
the trees on both sides of the entry path.  When a monkey jumped
down from a branch onto my shoulder, using me as a spring board,
he 'snatched my glasses and ran into the forest, like a naughty little
bandit.  Soon afterwards, the monkey took his fist and smashed
my glasses on a rock, scratching the glass, biting and tearing off
the nose pieces, while all I could do is to watch him helplessly.
The glasses were torn apart and basically a worthless piece of
trash.   One of the temple guides finally rescued the glasses from
the monkey with his secret bribes and then afterwards, he came
running after me with my broken glasses, like he had golden
treasure in his hand.   And then what??? ......he wanted a tip!

Tips Before Entering The Forest
1. If you want to feed a monkey peanuts or bananas, stand near
a forest guide.....sometimes they jump on you (the monkey, not
the guide) and it is handy to use the guide to get rid of the "monkey
on your back".

2. Don't carry food such as candy, trail mix, fruit, in your backpack
or purse....monkeys can smell food a mile away.

3. Take off anything shiny, earrings, watches, glasses, including
sun glasses. Monkeys love to snatch items and run off.

4. If they jump on you, don't swat at them, they might bite if they
are alarmed. They will eventually jump off or call for a guide to
help.

5. Beware of getting too close to the baby monkeys, as his large
mother is watching and ready to protect.

Ohhhhh.....No you don't!



Keeping my distance from the monkey behind me.
'




Wonderful little acrobats

Has anyone out there besides me had a bad or good

monkey experience??

Kecak Fire Trance Dance, Balinese Dances, Ubud, Bali

Dances To Entertain And Please The Gods

 

 

 

 

Non Tourist Traditional Dances

Most people arriving in Bali will see the tourist version of the dances, and  they are

similar to the original, but have been shortened and embellished with extra bits of
humor. Although most tourists wouldn't give it a second thought, there are still the
real traditional dances with  gamelan music,  performed at the non tourist temples
usually in the late evening, during a ceremonial time. The Balinese love their
ceremonies and in fact, their lives have a way of revolving around them.

 

Balinese ceremonies are set on auspicious dates by the high priests, according to a
Balinese calendar and the phases of the moon. The temple ceremonies  tend to be
very crowded and are not advertised or normally seen by tourists.  To be able to view
these dances would require some research while you are in Bali. (unfortunately it
can't be done on the internet) You would need to ask a lot of questions of the right
people.

If lucky enough to attend a real ceremony with dancing and music,  be prepared
to wear your sarong and sash, be as respectful as you can, bring water
and be prepared to spend a lot of time standing around waiting in the heat.  It is
important to be discreet with taking photos or ask permission first.  At many times,
it is inappropriate to take a photo and at other times, it is off limits.

Remember, these dances are part of a religious ceremony, you are a guest and you
don't want to be an embarrassment to your country. Currently, the Balinese are in the
process of deciding whether or not to make these private ceremonies totally off limits
to tourists.  It is probably just a matter of time before that will happen.

Tourist Dances.

If you want to see the tourist version of the Balinese dance and music,  there are
several traditional Balinese dance performance locations  in Ubud and that makes it
very convenient. 

 

Ubud Dance Performance Information:

         Entry Fees and Time: Currently, 80,000 rupiahs ($7.00 U.S.)starts at 7:30 p.m. 
         It is best to arrive at least 30 min early, if you want a good seat for taking photos.

          On the sidewalks near the venue, there are ticket sellers who will gladly sell to
          you.  They get a little commission when you buy the ticket from them, instead
          of at the entrance gate.
      
          Snacks and Patience: Inside, there are older women carrying buckets on their head
          with beer and soft drinks.  Bring your own snacks, a little patience and be prepared
          to sit for a couple of hours.

Kecak Trance Dance

 

One of the dances that I am most fascinated with is the Kecak Dance.  It is unique in
that there is typically  no gamelan accompaniment while a large circled group of

men go into a trance and end up prancing through fire and kicking up ashes at the end
of the show.  I found that if you relax, let yourself go and go with the flow, it is possible
to enter your own little trance.  There is no harm in drifting off  and I think it adds to
the experience.(unless you start snoring and embarrass yourself)

Also known as the Ramanaya Monkey Chant,  the Kecak evolved in the 1930s,  depicts
a battle from the Ramayana. The monkey like Vanara helped Prince Rama fight the evil
King Ravana. 

 

 

 

Kecak, restful trance scene

Did I mention the time a real, honest to goodness snake crawled out into the dead
center of the group of men in trance. I think the snake was attracted to the  trance
chanting energy and felt safe to be part of it. The scene was surprising, surreal, and
innocent to watch him crawl in.The audience group was heard whispering nervously,
some chuckling and eventually one of the chanting men intuitively woke up and with
precision, walked over, grabbed the fellas neck, picked him up and did something
with him behind  a hidden gate. I had a feeling the snake might be history and that
he was going to be entering his next life very soon.  We could say here, "what
happens behind the gate....stays behind the gate!"   

Perhaps, someone can explain to me how the karma works in that situation, especially
if he had been killed.  What happens to the  karma of the man who killed him and the
karma of the innocent snake.




Kecak Fire Dance, stamping and kicking through the burning coals.   They can
do so without getting burned since they are in trance. I've seen the coals getting
kicked up into the audience area....beware.
 

 

    Click for Video - Kecak Trance Dance, Uluwatu, Bali

   7 Minute Video - Exotic Ramayana Monkey Dance

     

Legong Dance And Ramayana Dance

 

Legong is a heavenly dance of divine nymphs.  Of all the classical Balinese dances, it

remains the quintessence of femininity and grace.The dance emphasizes intricate finger movements with unusually arched fingers, precise footwork, lovely graceful dancing,,

and bold, flickering eye movements. 

 

The Legong Dance is one historically done by young girls who retire at the age of 14 and

even now, they are usually quite young.  Traditionally, they start training early at age 4 or

or so and were trained by a master, older, retired woman dancer.    In former times, the

dancers were recruited from the aptest and prettiest children.

 

Both the Legong Dance and Ramayana Dance follow a Hindu story, an epic battle between

a good prince and an evil king. Accompanied by the gamelan gong orchestra, the Ramayana

dance is a unique dance combination of traditional dance techniques and modern comedy.

 

 

 

Legong and Ramayana Dance at Ubud Palace, Bali

 

 

Priest performs blessing before performance

 

Legong Dancer

 

 

Young performer in Legong - Ramayana Dance

  

 

  

Video of Legong and Ramayana Dance, Ubud, Bali

                                             Click here if video above does not cooperate

Meeting Lempad's Family: Legendary 116 Year Old Artist

I wasn't aware that I had met the family of one of the most important artists
in Bali, the architect and sculptor that helped to design a beautiful Ubud.

 

 

Luckily for me, the Lempad family was the very first family that I met 25 years
ago. It was my very first day in Bali, the morning of the ceremony "Saraswati"
and I needed to buy a sarong before I'd be allowed into any temple.

At that time,  my rented bungalow was located on Jl. Gootama, just a dusty, dirt
road with small groups of men squatting and spitting on the roadside, while petting
their cocks (the ones with feathers)  They were getting them ready for a favorite male
pastime of cockfighting, which continues to be popular even today.

I walked a few minutes and "accidently" arrived at the Lempad's small sarong
shop. The shop  on Jalan Raya is called "Yudes Toke", which is in  front of the
family compound, adjacent to their small art gallery area.  On that day, I honestly
felt like I had  been adopted by this generous family.  After my  sarong purchase,
the  girls carefully dressed me up  in their tiny bedroom, wrapped the  material
tightly around my hips, loaned me one of their kabaya lace blouses and  a sash,
so that I was dressed properly for the temple ceremony.

They Sent Me To My First Balinese Temple Ceremony.

While I felt like a school  child having just been groomed by loving parents, they
sent me off walking on my own to the temple for the Saraswati celebration.  It felt
like I was 5 years old again on my first day at school. The only thing missing was
my school lunch box and a thermos bottle. 

"Just follow the trail of women who are wearing sarongs and balancing the offering
baskets on their heads", they said.  Afterward a couple of  hot, thirsty and awesome
hours at the ceremony, I managed to return my dehydrated self back to the Lempads'
house, where I gratefully returned their clothing and received my own.  I must have
looked hungry because they offered me some lunch, which was  a banana leaf plate
topped with a mound of Nasi Goreng, (Indonesian fried rice), accompanied by a cup
of sweet syrupy tea.  At that time, everyone ate with their right hand,  rather than
using  utensils and to me, it  always felt rather slimy and unclean.  Today in Bali,
using one's  hand to eat is still very  common, but you will  occasionally see a
Balinese use a fork.

As if one ceremony wasn't enough for me,  I was then invited to yet another huge
ceremony, which included several 100s of people later in that evening.  Although
thrilled, jet lagged and near heat exhaustion, I didn't want to miss a ceremony. The
lesson I learned  quickly in Bali was that everything takes a  great deal of patience.
After going to both ceremonies, all within  the same day on my first day, it seemed 
to me I had at least a week's worth of new cultural activities and people.  




Inside the Lempad family compound, Ubud, Bali

They Generously Gave Me a Lempad Painting.

A couple  of  years later, while paging through my tour book, I finally  discovered
by reading a  page on the artist "Lempad", that the family who befriended me was
the legendary Lempads family.  I matched up their name to the oil painting that they
had given me  which was signed, "Lempad".   At the time it was  given to me, they
hardly knew me and yet  let me chose  any painting in the  gallery, in the same way
that their grandfather used to give away his paintings.  Of course, I was being overly
practical because my first thoughts were to chose a small painting that would fit into
my suitcase.  Although it was signed "Lempad", it could have easily been painted by
another family member.

I felt so lucky to be immersed by this family, who were ever so kind, again much
like their  Lempad grandfather. From the very first  day that I stepped foot on the
island, I  felt as if God was looking out after me.  Or perhaps, it was the magic of
Bali that  lured me and laid out  the red  carpet wherever I went.  I thought  it was
interesting when I talked to other tourists who told me they had similar experiences
and in fact, there have been several books written on the same topic.

 

My fascination with I Gusti Nyoman Lempad stems from  the first day that I
stepped out of my bungalow 20 years ago, when I was privileged to meet and
spend priceless time with his grandson and family.

Lempad was a well known Balinese artist that lived to the ripe old age of 116
years.  He didn't appear to have any diseases as one might expect for his many
years and  he simply died of "old age".  It's not  known exactly the date he was
born, but it was around 1862 and he finally died in 1978, on a day he had chosen
well in advance.

In Bali, the  age of 116 years old is extremely  unusual, especially at  that time

because the average age expectancy for a man was only 60 years old. According
to 2010 statistics, the  age expectancy increased to 70.67 years.
Jarkarta Post News

Unlike in some countries, the elderly in Bali are revered and honored, carrying
with them an aura of wisdom and memories of times past.  Living to an old age
is uncommon, especially in Bali's harsh tropical climate, where disease has long
been rife and medical treatment poorly available.  However, the Balinese do not
seem to be overly obsessed with having a long life, like they do in other countries.
Perhaps this is  because the Balinese  expect to be  reincarnated soon after death
and  then  to start a new life  within the same extended family. This belief offers
much peace for the family and certainly seems like a more comforting way to look
at life and death!

Of course, it would be a nightmare  if you were born into an abusive or horribly
dysfunctional family and had to do it all over again with the same family!

Lempad's Secret of Longevity.



Second Wife, Lempad at  age 116, and Son

According to John Darling's research that was written up in his 2014 book
"Lempad Of Bali":

     " Lempad was often  questioned by others to tell them  the secret to his
      longevity. He told them that as a young man, he visited an old respected
      sage who gave him  some wise advice. The sage  told Lempad that if he
      maintained a simple life, kept clear of politics and observed his sometimes
      demanding  responsibilities  to the community, he would live a long and
      fulfilled life."

      "During the many chaotic years in Bali, which included  invasions by the
      Dutch and  the Japanese, as well as  rivalries between villages, Lempad
      retreated into a meditative state and produced almost no works of art.  At
      that time, Lempad's family was sure  that he would soon die.  But he later
      explained that the  disarray of the world obliged  him to turn inwards in
      search of personal serenity."

When he was well into his 60s, Lempad began to reinvented himself and started to
do ink drawings, for which he became famous, in addition to his earlier architectural
masterpieces. During  his later creative years, he  was prolific with unique drawing
creations that were infused with Balinese culture and created for tourists rather than
the locals. 

Based on results of Lempad's long life, he certainly did an excellent job in following
the sage's advice!  Looking at the whole of his life, perhaps his secret to longevity
was a  combination of many things:  Creating beautiful  artwork  and reinventing
himself at 60, following the sages  advice of  keeping life  simple, spending years
meditating in silence during the Balinese political years and therefore staying out
of politics, and  being a major contributor to the Ubud community, while well into
his 90s. 

Lempad's Art.

Lempad created many  great works in his lifetime.  He was  an architect, a stone
sculptor, and an artist who produced hundreds of linear drawings, built a beautiful 
Ubud temple, and many palace sculptures.  As a prolific artist, he helped transform
Ubud into the beautiful village that it is today. He befriended and spent many years
living with the  royal family while they utilized his skills  and creativity. His style
evolved  over the years into a very fluid style.  Museums Puri Lukisan and Neka
Museum currently have an extensive collection of Lempad's drawings.

Museum Puri Lukisan, Ubud, Bali
Neka Museum of Art, Ubud, Bali



Lempad drawing, "Dancer Emerging From Trance" 1937

Lempad drawing, "Kecak Dance" 1939
Ink, cinnabar and gold leaf on paper.

Lempad's Architecture.

Pura Saraswati: This temple were built in the 1950s by Lempad at the command of
Ubud’s prince, in honor of Saraswati, the deity of learning and  knowledge. It is set
in a water garden, with a lotus pond as the centerpiece with fine carvings by Lempad.   

Pura Taman Saraswati, Ubud, Bali

Puri Saren:  The  grandeur of  Ubud’s royal palace dates from the 1890s.  Lempad
is responsible for the palace walls and the carved split gates (Candi Bentar), at both
the palace and Saraswati temple.

He Lived A Fascinating Life.

Lempad was a very generous man and was known to often give his paintings away
with no expectation in return. At the age of 20 he married a woman who was unable
to bear  children, which then  resulted in  his marrying her  younger sister, with the
three of  them living  harmoniously and  raising their 5 children.  Contrary to  the
current peaceful  times in Bali, there were many  years of conflicts and battles
within Bali.

During the same time, there was also much palace intrigue with the rajas or kings
who had as many as 50 wives, all eager for their sons' advancement.  Jealousy and
discreet poisoning  often took place. Whenever a raja died, many of  their devoted
wives would often times throw themselves on the funeral pyre.  Supposedly, they
wanted  to be with their  husband/king on the other side, where they  hoped they
would be reincarnated happily together into their next life.

Lempad Finally Announced It Was Time To Die. 

During the previous  year,  he carefully selected  an auspicious holy day on which
he planned to die. The day was April 25, 1978, the day of "Kajang Kliwon" known
as a good day to contact the spirits.  It was a time when the sun was in it's cycle at
its northern  most point close  to the sacred mountain, where it is believed the god
and ancestors dwell.

During the evening before his death, he asked his daughter to bring offering to the
temple.  Then on his dying day, he called his family together, asked them to bathe
and dress him, bade them farewell and then with his family around him, he let go
of his life. It was an incredible, beautiful example of conscious death. 

Then in  true Balinese form, there were preparations for a  huge celebration.  The
entire village became actively involved in creating pieces of art for his cremation
ceremony. To the Balinese people, death is not normally a time of great sadness
but merely a transition within the endless cycle of re-incarnation. 

The death rituals and accompanying cremation ceremony paraphernalia needed to
be correct in every way for the successful destruction of his material body and for
his soul's highest liberation.

During  his cremation ceremony, the people were  seen as joyful, laughing and
having fun, while parading along the road carrying huge pieces of artwork, such
as a bull and a tall tower, with a gamelan band  playing music, all the way to the
cemetery. The body was burned and his ashes were released to the sea during the
next morning.

Lempad's body was placed in a black bull sarcophagus.

The bull was then taken to the cemetery and torched into flames.

                                      Click here for a fascinating 5 minute video of Lempad

The video, "Visiting a 116 year old man", shows Lempad and priceless footage of
Bali in the late 70s, with the entire community celebrating his life at the cremation
ceremony.

My Return Visit To The Lempad Family.

The eldest of Lempad's three grandsons, I Gusti Gede Udayana, still lives on the
main road with his wife and family, in the same family compound  that is over a
century old. The only grandson who thrived as an artist is Gusti Nyoman Sudara.

At this time in 2014, it had been ten years since my last visit.  I think the family
hardly remembered me, but when I showed them copies of our photos together,
their eyes lit up and I was immediately invited for tea.  While we sat yogi style
on the family outdoor platform, the wife of Lempad's grandson gave me a page
by page  tour of  the 2014 large hardback book, "Lempad of Bali",  which was
written as a tribute to the grandfather.

Because her  English is far better than I ever remembered  it and coupled with a
slight improvement of my own Indonesian, it was the first time ever that we had
a  meaningful conversation.   Lempad's  grandson is  also a friendly, humble man
who is  missing part of  one leg, due to being hit as a pedestrian  long ago on the
main road. Their two daughters  work in the intimate clothing fabric shop in front
of the family compound. It is a small Aladdin's room of jewel colored scarves, silk
sarongs, and laces.  It happens  to be the same clothing shop where I bought  my
first sarong.

Unlike the rest of Bali, time may have stopped for them, or so it  seemed to me at
the time of my visit. Their shop continues to be a miniature size and everything in
the family compound looks almost the same as it did ten years ago. 

If I had looked further or stayed longer, I might have noticed that the family all had
smart phones and oversized flat screen TVs.  For me, that would be too many modern
changes within  a short time and  it would  be very disturbing.  But I  didn't observe
anything like that and for now, I'd like to keep my illusion that they are an authentic
example of traditional Balinese culture.

How You Can Also Visit The Lempad Family.



To visit the Lempads, look for this sign on Jl Raya
Ubud, Bali

Lempad's house can be easily found on the busy street of Jl. Raya Ubud, which is
almost opposite of Nomad restaurant and across the street from the market. There
is no  admission fee and it is very casual  with their front gate  open and friendly.
The family still lives there and it continues to be a traditional  family compound
rather than a museum. There are hanging cages everywhere with exotic birds and
roosters, well  manicured  Bonsai trees, and  carved wood  art pieces.  Although
many things are left in disarray and appears disorganized, the property has a true
Balinese feel to it.

They are a  very generous family, following  the footsteps of their grandfather
Lempad. Since the home compound is always open and welcoming to strangers,
the family will  gladly show you around and answer  your questions about their
grandfather.

Be sure to buy something from their shop, like a sarong or a scarf to show your
appreciation. Or  better yet,  bring the Lempads something  from home as a gift,
something to give back for the kindness they have imparted to you and so many
others.

The latest book, "Lempad of Bali"  by John Darling. printed in 2014, has a
collection of 500 drawings and essays.

Videos: "Lempad Of Bali"
Part One
Part Two
Part Three
Part Four
Part Five
Five 10-15 minute youtube videos of Lempad and of his elaborate cremation                              ceremony. You will be mesmerized by the traditional Balinese culture.