Return To Bali, The "Island Of The Gods"

My Bags Are Packed For My Return To Bali

Time is quickly sneaking up on me and in just one day, I will return to Bali, known as the "Island of the Gods".   The Indonesian island is one of the few, beautiful, cultural gems left in the world.  It is a place where I always feel at home and amazingly, where my heart is always at rest.  Yet, I do have some trepidation about the changes I will find, with massive numbers of tourists, choking motorbike traffic and no turning the clock advances of technology.  My first trip seemed both magical and mystical, was twenty two years ago, while my last trip was ten years ago. As for this trip, I'm not sure how I will describe it later, but I am simply "open" to meeting the right people at the right time and being led along another Balinese path of adventure, wherever it takes me.

From San Francisco I will take a 12 hour red eye flight on China Air to Taipei, Taiwan, where there is a 3 hour layover, and then a final 7 hour flight to Bali.  Hopefully, my small check in suitcase on wheels, will soon be packed and ready to go.  Spread out on my spare bedroom floor are small piles of items, including 100% cotton sun dresses, a couple of knee high shorts, Keen sandals, a floppy wide brimmed hat, a one piece turquoise swimsuit, a bottle of sunscreen, bug repellent, a black umbrella (rainy season begins) an Indonesian phrase book, assorted, miniature light weight toys for the orphanage, a small bag of baby items for a medical clinic, silicone earplugs (to block out the nighttime roosters crowing) a passport with a 2 month visa, a list of Bali contacts that I hope will still remember me and a several  pink tablets of emergency Pepto Bismo.
 
Since, it is my third extended trip this year, after Guatemala and Colombia/Ecuador, I have to shyly admit that I am making the most off this year and for any lost time in the past. I love the adventure and the challenge of travel more than anything I can think of. To answer the questions that I am continually being asked as I travel alone, "No I am not overly worried about my safety" although I do pack a bottle of pepper spray and "No, I don't plan to be lonely, even if I may alone at times."  Everyone is unbelievable friendly when traveling, like being in another universe.

I don't  know much I will write when in Bali or how reliable their wi-fi will be, but I will try to send out some updates and post on the blog........Sending Love




My 7 Favorite Quotes:

The woman who follows the crowd will usually go no further than the crowd. The woman who walks alone is likely to find herself in places no one has ever been before. 
Albert Einstein

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
Mark Twain

We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open. 
Jawaharial Nehru

Whether traveling far and abroad or close to home, the magic of the land has the power to open doorways and perceptions, and when you return you will most certainly be changed.
Ixchel Tucker

If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion, and avoid the people, you might better stay home.
James A. Michener

 So never refuse an invitation, never resist the unfamiliar, never fail to be polite and never outstay the welcome. Just keep your mind open and suck in the experience. And if it hurts, you know what? It’s probably worth it.
Alex Garland

A spirit in my feet said go, and I went.
Matthew Brady

Arrived At Homestay 'Rumah Roda" In Ubud, Bali

It Was A Long Flight, But Was Worth It!

After a sleepless 12 hour red eye flight from San Francisco to Taiwan, a 3 hour layover, and a final 7 hour flight to Bali, I arrived at 2:20pm, feeling weary but also felt much anticipation.   To my relief, the arranged driver was patiently standing outside the airport, looking a bit bored and waving a paper sign. I chuckled when I saw my last name badly misspelled as usual.  After climbing into his van, the next 1 hour drive from the airport to Ubud was more nerve wrecking than I ever remembered, while my driver tried his best to avoid the many weaving motorbikes that were pouring out clouds of toxic fumes.

When we finally approached the village of Ubud, I was thrilled to recognize the street "Monkey Forest" road and could feel a surge of energy.  There was a colorful flow of memories from past years and an indescribable welcoming feeling.  I had reservations via email for Rumah Roda homestay, which I researched on the internet as being a very good choice.  It has a traditional Balinese family compound with a three story building at the rear of the property offering 8 guest rooms.



 #24 Jn Kajeng, Rumah Roda entryway, Ubud, Bali

When I entered the homestay Rumah Roda, the family was welcoming and showed me my room
on the 2nd floor, which had a nice view of the family temple and also a peek a boo view of the neighbors properties.  Grandpa was sitting in the center of the compound in a  yogi position,
peeling a mound of garlic cloves and scraping out coconuts. I tried to ask him for a clove but he didn't seem to understand and it didn't seem right to snatch one from the pile.  Grandma was making temple offering with flowers, girls were sweeping with handmade brooms and roosters were still crowing in the mid day.

I slowly unpacked and it suddenly became dark at 6pm, when I took an awesome walk, circling the busy streets of Ubud.  Sadly, some of my favorite cafes and hangouts were replaced with new upscale shops.  But on the up side, I happily found Wayan , my favorite bungalow boy from a previously torn down bungalow,  sitting in his outdoor clothing stall. He was shocked when he saw me and remembered my name.  "Of course I remember you",  he said, "I still have a photo of you posted on my wall at home, and I walk by it everyday". "How can I forget you".    After a short sweet visit with Wayan, I started to feel jet lag and walked back to my homestay, Romah Ruda. I  slept well with ear plugs and woke up feeling amazingly refreshed.

When staying in a traditional Balinese  home stay you will have an experience in observing what happens on a daily basis within the Balinese culture.  The rooms are basic with scant furniture, a few lingering insects who appear to be in meditation while sitting on the bathroom counter top and an old fashioned Balinese version of cleanliness, good but not impeccable.

In the evenings the family may be seen flopped down on pillows, spread out on an outdoor platform

while all together watching TV, a fairly new addition to Balinese life.  They are reserved with basic friendliness but I had some disappointed that it wasn't quite as friendly  as I had read in the reviews. 
I quickly became aware of other guests being shuffled out of their rooms and being moved down the road to another family guesthouse, as to temporarily accommodate new guests.  Hopefully that won't happen to me!

The rooms all overlook a small pool down as well as an outdoor temple cluttered with building supplies and surrounding neighborhood family compounds.  The front entry area displayed a collection of family photos / paintings including one bizarre painting of young frightened girls running in the rice fields away from a man who appeared to boast a large erection. I'm still trying to figure out the feng shui that this particular photo portrays while it hangs proudly in the front entry area.  Someone please enlighten me!

Then there are a few loud, might I say "active" roosters in the immediate neighborhood with one pathetic wailing rooster immediately next door that just doesn't quit.  One of the staff members admitted that it is supposedly an expensive specialty bird that their neighbor displays in a cage.  They all hate the constant rooster wailing and in fact puts out so much bad energy that it gives them bad dreams at night.  But unfortunately, there is nothing she or anyone else can do since the Balinese seem to love their roosters and the variety of songs that they sing.

Rumah Roda pool, Ubud, Bali

The semi outdoor restaurant at the front and up on the second floor is where the included

breakfast is served. It is a good place to meet people from this homestay as well as other tourists
from the neighborhood.

The prices were reasonably priced but unfortunately I found that the Sunday buffet was overly spicy for me which required me to leave the table after the first two bites.  Also it wasn't quite as peaceful as it looked.  There were many motorbikes racing back and forth along the road driven by what look like 10 or 12 year olds.  I suspect that if there is an age limit, it is not enforced.  Needless to say, I learned quickly to say a little prayer and to hug the far side of the road.
I guess every area within Ubud and each homestay comes with their unique pros and cons but I will always come back to Rumah Roda.  The homestay is authentically Balinese and the owners are generous with giving out information about local events, especially when you let them know in advance that you are interested in Balinese ceremonies..

Rumah Roda upstairs restaurant, Ubud, Bali

(Update:  The rooms now all  have AC,  a small refrigerator and a TV. )

First Morning Walk Through the Rice Paddies, Ubud, Bali

As soon as the morning light filtered into my room, I forced myself to get up and out of the door, which is usually difficult because  I am not a morning person.   I headed out to the rice paddies when it seemed that most people were still asleep.  One of my favorite things to do is to take long quiet walks, usually alone, to explore the off beat  paths, when the light is soft and only the sounds  of nature are heard.  There are the cackling sounds of bugs, the chirping of birds and the rushing of water throughout the old Bali  irrigations canals circulating the rice paddies. 

There is so much peace and serenity out in the back roads and fortunately the Balinese are agreeable to photos, like the man above.



Along the path, a man  offered me a coconut.  Silly me, I thought he would climb the tree just like  remember in the past.  But  instead he had several coconuts piled up in his secret hideout. With proficiency, he cut off a slice from the  top and then a slice off the bottom finally inserting a straw, handing it to me with a wide stained tooth grin.  I was told later I  paid him twice too much - 20000 rupiahs ($1.5 dollars) and apparently I forgot to bargain the price, feeling blissed out in the rice paddies.



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This girl is making offering, wafting incense and repeating mantras for the Gods in her family temple.  The dog apparently wants to be part of the ritual.  He is one of the lucky ones, a well fed, sweet little pet,

and one that will not be cooked for dinner.  Yes, in Bali, dog meat may be on the menu but it is usually in the country at local food diners and not in the tourist areas.

These are typical offerings that are created by the women of the house and placed up onto the family alters, at the front entry of the house, on the ground and other locations.  Sometimes, like the one above they add a cigarette, a piece of candy or a can of soda with the intention that  they will make the Gods happy. At the very least an offering is made before each meal.



Walking Along An Awesome Street - Hollywood - Ubud, Bali

Jalan Kajeng, Ubud, Bali

Ask your driver to drop you off on a charming narrow street called
Jalan Kejeng, which is off the main road and a stone's throw away
from  Monkey Forest Rd.  Here you will find many  reasonably-priced
guesthouses and restaurants, and after 30 minutes down the road,
it will  lead to one of the best rice paddy walks in all of Ubud.

What is unique about this street is that it looks a little  the Hollywood
Star's Avenue, "Signature Street".  It is covered with squares of hand
designed square of cement with interesting sayings, hand and footprints
from people al over the world. 





Ganesh,  with an elephant head and human body, is one of the most popular Hindu deities.
He is considered to be god of success and of opening doors.











 

Dressed up and going where?  Usually when they are
this dressed up, they are gong to temple.  But normally,  they
walk to the temple and carry offerings. So, not sure
where these ladies are going.  However,they look like they're
up to having a fun time.
'You Go Girl!"

 Apparently, you can take a tax and meet new friends.
Notice the tight corset that is required to be worn by the taxi driver.

There are many different flowers to enjoy.



Convenient platform for napping and sipping with a friend.

Wedding Make Up Services

I have a hate love relationship with monkeys....and I love this monkey painting! 

A Visit With Wayan, "Eat Pray Love", "Traditional Balinese Healing Center"

Wayan was the healer in "Eat Pray Love", by Elizabeth Gilbert and an actress played her role in the resulting movie.

I did not search for the current 86 year old, toothless, medicine
man, “Ketut Liyer” to have a palm reading.  I understand he can be
rather silly, flattering and funny, often causing one to do some
serious belly laughing with him. (as in laughter yoga)   Nor did I search
for a Hot Brazilian Lover, like Javier Bardem, who in the movie was

discovered by Julia Roberts at a Balinese expatriate party.   

But, I did search for "Wayan", the Balinese 
woman healer and  owner of the “Traditional Balinese Healing Center” in Ubud.
It was only a few perspiring blocks from my homestay.

The center was humbly located on Jl. Jembawan, near the post office
with a faded overhead sign.   Fortunately, I arrived at the clinic
immediately before a torrential downpour rain, the first one in 2
months.  My pathetic, broken umbrella, used previously
only to keep the sun off my face, was keeping me somewhat dry,
except for walking through the nasty looking puddles.

Wayan Nuriasih is a real life character, portrayed in the 2006 memoir
and later the movie, “Eat Pray Love”, which  was adapted from the
book.  In real life, Wayan and author Elizabeth  Gilbert, became
friends through her treatment and interesting discussions about men. 

Wayan  apparently  received a chunk of money  from the film
company, which gave  her some security and also a new mini van.
And she was also able to build a 2 story house, surrounded by rice
paddies, which was financed by the author Ms Gilbert and the
author’s friends.  Thanks to her fortuitous meeting, Wayan has
become a very lucky healer.

Which is so great because she no longer has to  live  hand to mouth, 
like most Balinese.   Although she still works long hours, she
devotes herself to a  line up of clients.  According to an article I read,
she provides free care for the Balinese poor and finds time to support 
her neighbors. 

She seems to have a devoted following and operates on an unpredictable
time frame. One does not make an appointment, but must show up and
wait for an unknown amount of time, which requires a bit of patience.
I noticed that she was assisted at the center by  her daughter “Tutti”
who is an older version of the sweet and adorable girl who played her part
in the movie.  She could be 16 years old?

Wayan  has become known for her ability to accurately diagnose a
myriad of physical ailments and prescribe her version of treatments
for them. For a consultation fee of 400,000 rupiahs, 30 euros or 32 usd
she may ask you what your symptoms are, to write down your birthdate,
looks at your palms and then read your energy intuitively. Afterwards,
you peel off your damp Bali clothes, wrap up in a sarong and climb up
to the mysterious upstairs treatment area. The session might last an hour
or it might last all day long and you pay accordingly.

The treatments  usually include a deep tissue massage of 2 or 3
people at a time working on you,  turmeric teas and herbal scrubs,
a mostly raw food lunch, and recommended herbs, supplements,
nutrition advice and herb packets to take home.  I've read of cases where
her daughter Tutti will drive a client to her grandfather's rural house
(who is also a healer) to remove dark stuck energies or she
might suggest going to a high priest for a treatment and a ceremony.
Be prepared for whatever might happen.

I  was thinking about having the 80,000 rp ($7.00 u.s.d.) lunch which
would have been red rice, sprouts, and assorted raw foods, labeled on
paper with the correct vitamins. But the center’s two small tables were
taken by clients and while the facility was cluttered and cramped, it was
not necessarily a place I'd choose to eat.  

I already knew I didn’t want a treatment because I could not even
think about the idea of 2 or 3 people massaging me at the same
time (6 hands) with the deep pressure with possible pounding or thumping.
That would be a torture treatment for me and I know that it is an
important part of the treatment.  But I'm happy to report what I've learned
here in this blog.  

 I was reminded  that this place is not a luxury spa, but is located
in an old, well used, somewhat run down building with the usual
crawling geckos and the occasional rat visitor.  It is an original
Bali treatment center,  exotic in a strange ancient sense, as if the
walls are secretly whispering their secret remedies. This is certainly
not anything you would ever see in one of those  attractive
advertisements, inside a yoga magazine.

At the time I was visiting,  there were two European girls sitting
at one of the two tables having an herbal tea.  When I spoke to
them they said they had completed the treatment only moments
ago and felt it was a very good treatment.  They both looked a
bit pale, a bit spongy and oily and yes…very relaxed.  I wouldn't
say, however, that they looked radiant.

Other recommended healers can be found by asking at the restaurant,
“Bali Buda”, www.Balibuda.com (directly across the street from
Wayan's treatment center)  or you can have a treatment with Ketut at
”Ubud Body Works". www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com or ask at "Bali
Spirit", www.balispirit.com.

Although Wayan is motherly, caring  and certainly appears to be
genuine in her intentions, I will warn you that I have  read some mixed
internet reviews but most of them seem to be good.

I would recommend anyone going for a treatment to begin by
trying  to remain open to the healing process itself,  to go with the
flow, an open mind,  to breathe deeply and to try to enjoy the entire
Balinese experience. 

​

If you are lucky enough to be spending time in Bali, why not tap
into the beautiful healing, magic that is everywhere present and
particularly during the time of the full moon.  You will probably be
drawn to the right kind of treatment and find the right healer for you,
whether it be Wayan, another healer, or even a traditional healer "balian".

There is so much to offer in Bali.....and that's why I love it so

much here!

(Update: Ubud Medicine man Ketut Liyur died on 6/13/2016 and was said

to be 100 years old.  His family continues to give healings and sings their 

mantras all the way to the bank.)

Kecak Fire Trance Dance, Balinese Dances, Ubud, Bali

Dances To Entertain And Please The Gods

 

 

 

 

Non Tourist Traditional Dances

Most people arriving in Bali will see the tourist version of the dances, and  they are

similar to the original, but have been shortened and embellished with extra bits of
humor. Although most tourists wouldn't give it a second thought, there are still the
real traditional dances with  gamelan music,  performed at the non tourist temples
usually in the late evening, during a ceremonial time. The Balinese love their
ceremonies and in fact, their lives have a way of revolving around them.

 

Balinese ceremonies are set on auspicious dates by the high priests, according to a
Balinese calendar and the phases of the moon. The temple ceremonies  tend to be
very crowded and are not advertised or normally seen by tourists.  To be able to view
these dances would require some research while you are in Bali. (unfortunately it
can't be done on the internet) You would need to ask a lot of questions of the right
people.

If lucky enough to attend a real ceremony with dancing and music,  be prepared
to wear your sarong and sash, be as respectful as you can, bring water
and be prepared to spend a lot of time standing around waiting in the heat.  It is
important to be discreet with taking photos or ask permission first.  At many times,
it is inappropriate to take a photo and at other times, it is off limits.

Remember, these dances are part of a religious ceremony, you are a guest and you
don't want to be an embarrassment to your country. Currently, the Balinese are in the
process of deciding whether or not to make these private ceremonies totally off limits
to tourists.  It is probably just a matter of time before that will happen.

Tourist Dances.

If you want to see the tourist version of the Balinese dance and music,  there are
several traditional Balinese dance performance locations  in Ubud and that makes it
very convenient. 

 

Ubud Dance Performance Information:

         Entry Fees and Time: Currently, 80,000 rupiahs ($7.00 U.S.)starts at 7:30 p.m. 
         It is best to arrive at least 30 min early, if you want a good seat for taking photos.

          On the sidewalks near the venue, there are ticket sellers who will gladly sell to
          you.  They get a little commission when you buy the ticket from them, instead
          of at the entrance gate.
      
          Snacks and Patience: Inside, there are older women carrying buckets on their head
          with beer and soft drinks.  Bring your own snacks, a little patience and be prepared
          to sit for a couple of hours.

Kecak Trance Dance

 

One of the dances that I am most fascinated with is the Kecak Dance.  It is unique in
that there is typically  no gamelan accompaniment while a large circled group of

men go into a trance and end up prancing through fire and kicking up ashes at the end
of the show.  I found that if you relax, let yourself go and go with the flow, it is possible
to enter your own little trance.  There is no harm in drifting off  and I think it adds to
the experience.(unless you start snoring and embarrass yourself)

Also known as the Ramanaya Monkey Chant,  the Kecak evolved in the 1930s,  depicts
a battle from the Ramayana. The monkey like Vanara helped Prince Rama fight the evil
King Ravana. 

 

 

 

Kecak, restful trance scene

Did I mention the time a real, honest to goodness snake crawled out into the dead
center of the group of men in trance. I think the snake was attracted to the  trance
chanting energy and felt safe to be part of it. The scene was surprising, surreal, and
innocent to watch him crawl in.The audience group was heard whispering nervously,
some chuckling and eventually one of the chanting men intuitively woke up and with
precision, walked over, grabbed the fellas neck, picked him up and did something
with him behind  a hidden gate. I had a feeling the snake might be history and that
he was going to be entering his next life very soon.  We could say here, "what
happens behind the gate....stays behind the gate!"   

Perhaps, someone can explain to me how the karma works in that situation, especially
if he had been killed.  What happens to the  karma of the man who killed him and the
karma of the innocent snake.




Kecak Fire Dance, stamping and kicking through the burning coals.   They can
do so without getting burned since they are in trance. I've seen the coals getting
kicked up into the audience area....beware.
 

 

    Click for Video - Kecak Trance Dance, Uluwatu, Bali

   7 Minute Video - Exotic Ramayana Monkey Dance

     

Legong Dance And Ramayana Dance

 

Legong is a heavenly dance of divine nymphs.  Of all the classical Balinese dances, it

remains the quintessence of femininity and grace.The dance emphasizes intricate finger movements with unusually arched fingers, precise footwork, lovely graceful dancing,,

and bold, flickering eye movements. 

 

The Legong Dance is one historically done by young girls who retire at the age of 14 and

even now, they are usually quite young.  Traditionally, they start training early at age 4 or

or so and were trained by a master, older, retired woman dancer.    In former times, the

dancers were recruited from the aptest and prettiest children.

 

Both the Legong Dance and Ramayana Dance follow a Hindu story, an epic battle between

a good prince and an evil king. Accompanied by the gamelan gong orchestra, the Ramayana

dance is a unique dance combination of traditional dance techniques and modern comedy.

 

 

 

Legong and Ramayana Dance at Ubud Palace, Bali

 

 

Priest performs blessing before performance

 

Legong Dancer

 

 

Young performer in Legong - Ramayana Dance

  

 

  

Video of Legong and Ramayana Dance, Ubud, Bali

                                             Click here if video above does not cooperate

Mama Gloria: Opened A Free Clinic For the Sick And Poor, Lovina, Bali

Shortly After The Death Of Her Son, She Escaped

Australia.

She went to Bali for a much needed time of rest,recovery and healing.

Mama Gloria, affectionately  named by her patients,  has  devoted the
last 19 years  of  her life to  provide free  medical care and education
for the poorest of  the poor in Bali.




Gloria and Daughter

She was shocked to witness in Bali that there was almost  no medical 
care for the poor  and the  facilities available were  extremely limited.
With  a background, both in  social work and nurses training, she had
a calling to reach out and  help in some way.

At first, she first  began to run a makeshift clinic out of  her suitcase
in a  room in Candi Dasa on the east coast of Bali.  Eventually she
moved to the north coast area of  Lovina, which is know for its basic
friendliness and relaxed way of life. For all the years in Bali, she has
had to rely entirely on tourist donations to run the clinic. She became
the  founder and director of Bali Crisis Care Foundation, in the village
of Dusun Lebah, Kaliasem, Lovina. Bali Crisis Care provides urgently
needed medical care, health education, drop in emergency treatment
and outreach  community care. Working closely with Gloria,the staff
includes a highly trained Balinese doctor, nurses and midwives.

Amazingly, as if she hadn't done enough to make a difference, she
opened up her heart one more notch, when she decided to adopt
and raise a Balinese child from the time of birth.

Bali Crisis Care Ambulance, Lovina, Bali

Bali Crisis Care Clinic, Lovina, Bali

Bali Crisis Care Foundation, Lovina, Bali 




Little boy with serious burns after a motorbike accident.



Same little boy before the motorbike accident. 
His father runs a business from a motorbike.



On  my first trip to  Bali, I too was  grieving the loss of a dear friend
and it was  his death that led me on the path of looking for some way
to be of service, my own fulfilling niche.

From day one, Bali seemed like a second home to me, where I slept
more  soundly,  connected  with  people more  easily, found  magic
moments  wherever I went. The  culture is  beautiful,  exotic, filled
with love, peace,  adventure  and  it was  much like a little paradise
for  me.

I've  heard that this is  a common  experience for tourists when they
come to Bali!

However of course, Bali is Not a Paradise for the Poor!

At  the same time  that I experienced  the bliss, I also  opened up
my eyes and saw the overwhelming poverty, deformity, pain and
suffering.  Newborn  babies are still held hostage in the  hospitals
until families cough up the money to pay the entire bill. There are
times  when families must  sell their home  property  before  they
can  take their baby home. People die at  a young age, needlessly
because they cant afford healthcare. 

When I toured  a government  hospital, I witnessed what  it was
appalling. One small bathroom for a large room  of patients and
their families, who camp out next to their family member's  bed.
Old, bloody  rags  lying  around  on  the floor. The lack  of well
trained doctors and nurses are another problem.

After  meeting Gloria, each  time  I'd visit Bali, I felt inspired to
bring an extra suitcase of donations, including prescriptions and
medical supplies. At that time it became easy for me  to become
a much needed fund raiser and with the help of donors from  the
U.S.A and other countries,  the Bali Crisis Care Foundation was
able to eventually buy land and build a clinic.

I always  love visiting and hearing  about the projects she  has been 
involved with,whether it be  the organic gardening  group, a sewing
program, deliveries of needed wheelchairs, free water and recycled
mattresses to the needy,  and  the list goes on.  All those projects are
in addition to child deliveries, taking care of  patients  with  injuries,
auto accidents, tuberculosis, dengue fever, typhus, rheumatoid fever,
polio and intestinal infections.


Tour the Clinic and Make a Donation.

Gloria will give you a tour of the clinic and share fascinating stories
about everyday life in Bali, about patients who have survived well
because of their care at the clinic, about unusual medical cases and
about treatments offered by the local balians or dukans. (Balinese
medicine men) Gloria has an infectious sense of humor and you will
feel enfolded with her loving care when you meet her.

Anyone wanting to donate to Bali Crisis Care Foundation can transfer
money via Western Union or deposit into their banks in Indonesia and
Australia. If you are coming to Bali for a vacation you are welcome to
visit her in person and hand over any kind of donation.  Although, on
the website, she gives tips on what they need. When visiting the clinic
in Lovina, you  can get a  better understanding of how your money is
allocated.  Please email  her at least a few days in advance, if you are
planning to visit.

Contact Information:
www.balicrisiscare.org
Phone: +62 (0)362 422 86,
Mobile: +62 (0)81 2377 4649
Email: Balicrisiscare@hotmail.com

(A few of the  photos were taken from www.balicrisiscare site.)

Wayang Shadow Puppet Show and 3 Month Baby Ceremony

 

Since it was an auspicious day in Bali, a day set by the priest, it
was good timing for a ceremonial Wayang Shadow Puppet Show
(Wayang Kulit) and a 3 Month Baby Celebration. I was very
excited when my now best friend Ketut, gave me a special
invitation to attend his nephew's ceremony.

 

When babies turn three months old, they are blessed by the priest,
given a special Balinese name and finally allowed to touch their
feet to the ground. Before 3 months, they are considered to be like
little Gods and too holy to touch their feet to the dirt.  The Wayang
Shadow Puppet Show is also performed on the same day, but only
if the baby was born on a particular inauspicious day on the
Balinese calendar, to prevent  having emotional problems or a
moody personality.  

At 6 pm, I headed out to the ceremony and  it was already starting
to get dark as I walked a few blocks to Ketut’s nephews house.
Since Ketut had gone to another ceremony at his village temple
and I would be on my own, for this evening. (so many ceremonies
....so little time!)  Honestly, it seems like for a local Balinese, the
required ceremonies are endless and the preparations for offerings
are very time consuming.

Trying to find a specific place in Bali is sometimes complicated,
even with directions.  Look for the stone sculpture, the shell door,
the mango fruit stand, turn left at ? shop, walk so many
kilometers (I don't think In metric!) and you will find a gate with
decorations.  In these situations, it is best to think of it as an
adventure and not be frustrated, because there is a darn good
chance of getting lost.

When the road split, I went to the right only to later find out I
really should have gone to the  left.    Through the trees, on the
other side of someone's property, I couldn't see anything, but I
could hear what sounded like a  priest singing in a  strangely
animated unusual language.  (shadow puppet shows are
performed in a Javanese language) 

I guess I’ve been to Bali enough times now, so that I can
almost sniff out where a ceremony is going to be by watching
the people carrying their offerings.  However in this case, the
road was deserted.

I felt  trapped when I saw the street's dead end and feared that
the nephew's child ceremony might be finished by the time I
got there, if I were to backtrack my steps back to the split in the
road.  Then suddenly when the impulsive part of me took over,
I took a short cut through someone’s overgrown side yard and
hen back yard.  I know what you'd say. "That is much too
dangerous, what about the angry dogs or the angry neighbors?"
Yes, I did think bout the dog aspect, but I didn't see and I would
have gone back if I did.  Also, to be honest with you, I've never
seen an angry Balinese, although I know that they too, must have
a bad day.  I walked cautiously in the direction toward a loud
speaker, weaving my way to where I thought that Ketut’s
nephew’s ceremony was located.  Along the way,there were a few
chickens and a couple of piglets scattering about in the dirt, but
all was quiet and it made me think that these neighbors must be
already at the ceremony.

I arrived at the nephews terrace and in enough timing, to see
the puppet show, with the priest chanting, singing and in the heat
of action, performing the holy ceremony. The puppets are flat
people figures with movable arms made of buffalo hide attached
to a hand held post.  There was  a hanging pot burning with hot
oil flickering flames which casted a shadow onto a rice paper
screen. Two men were accompanying the priest by playing
Balinese gamelan  music and as usual, there with a sweet wafting
of incense.  Most of the shows are based on epics of Ramayana
and Mahabharata, stories of romance, adventure and comedy.

One of the best places to see a shadow puppet show is in Ubud,
and you will need to ask around as for the location.  Since the
show may last several hours, you might want to plan ahead...
Have patience and bring a cushion to sit on, unless of course,
you are American and gifted to have your own natural cushion.

 

 

Wayang Shadow Puppet Show

 

There were a few children on both sides of the white screen watching
the show, but they didn’t appear to show as much interest as I would
expect.  As you can see, the oldest one sitting next to the screen is
either texting or playing video games. 

 



Wayang Shaadow Puppet Show



3 Months Old Baby Ceremony

 

 

As part of the ceremony,  the high priest sprinkled holy water on
Ketut’s 3 month old nephew, the grandmother was part of the
ceremony and wrapped the baby's head in strips of colored cloth. 
Peanuts and cigarettes were passed around during the ceremony. 
When all was over, the family ate a plate of food including
roasted pig, and passed around with glasses of palm wine. 
Eventually, like a small circus show, the priest packed up his gig
and headed out for his next ceremony and puppet show, as he
two more to perform that evening.

  5 minute excerpt from an Indonesian puppet show.

                                    

After the event, it gave me the opportunity to release a few of
my colorful stickers to the children.  They were all very polite,
and I was surprised that there was no grabbing of extras, like
I've seen at home.  They took only their one sticker each,
followed by “terima kasih” (thank you).

Then I walked back home in the dark for 2 blocks on a secluded
country road and to balance things out, 1 block on a busy road. I
was grateful that Bali is still a fairly safe place to be, especially
being a single woman traveling alone.

I have to admit though, that  if I had planned better, I would have

taken my pepper spray with me, for a sense of security and

protection, which is effective against both dogs and people.
However, being the tidy person that I am,  it was packed in my
suitcase!  Fortunately, in all my travels I have never come close
to needing anything for protection, but I don't want to push my
luck!