The Past and The Present - 8 Changes In Ubud, Bali

1. There are motorbikes everywhere, perhaps 3 times as many as it there were 10
years ago, and at times they are double parked along the main Ubud roads of Jalan Raya and Monkey Forest Road.  I’m sad to say it is so busy and crazy as a pedestrian to cross most of the streets, that there is always a nagging fear of being hit.  Shockingly, in addition to 4 people on a motorbike without helmets, I’ve
even witnessed "texting and driving” while on their motorcycles.  

The accident rate is high and I am told there are 5000 deaths a year in Bali due to motorbikes.  The medical facilities may have improved a little over the years, but
they are still few and far between, with limited supplies, and more importantly,
limited knowledge which results  in negligent treatment.

Because of the motorbikes, I had to use a different crossing the road technique:  Wait until a Balinese (preferably a large guy) stands at the side of the road intending
to cross the road.   Then I stand close to him, using hand motions of wanting to cross with him.  Suddenly, the Balinese testosterone kicks in, he makes a bold hand
gesture to the cars bringing the traffic to a dead stop, and then we cross quickly.

 

I used to hear melodies of the gamelan band while they were practicing and playing from many blocks away.  Also there was the sound of the Balinese when they sing
in the shower or take a “mandi” baths.  (the baths they take by rhythmically pouring
a large cup of water over their heads)  Now I only  hear a constant buzz of traffic
and I think it might be time to head for the country!

2. There are a lot more tourists, more of the high end tourists from China and Japan, looking to make luxury purchases.

Money has poured into Bali and the people here seem quite happy about it, which of course improves their lifestyle.  Many of the older Balinese will admit higher stress now that they no longer have their relaxed lifestyles.  Many have smartphones, but at least, most of them seem to have cell phones, which was not the case 10 years ago.
My guess is that  they still live in a small house, perhaps even with dirt floors.
 

3. The side walks have improved, although there are still plenty of broken cement areas, some open pits you must step over, and there is the occasional wave of
sewage odor that hits you, as you might grimace.

4. Garbage has improved with real containers, instead of the past heaps and piles at random messy locations.  Occasionally, I saw small trash  cans labeled  "organic"
and "inorganic".   Restaurants are fancier, diverse and the menus are exotic and
more varied.  Some of my old haunts /food warungs are non existent, gone, just
mysteriously disappeared.   However, you won't see me complaining when I find a new organic restaurant out in the rice paddies, one with a long stretched peaceful view. 

5. Hotels have overbuilt and therefore there are higher vacancies.
I wonder how they manage.......and then I remind myself as to how cheap it is for
them to live simply .  I'm told that the rice paddies are rapidly disappearing and
that existing farmers are extremely poor.  Sadly the culture is shrinking and one
by one, the traditional Balinese homestays (like the one I am in) are being
replaced by hotels.

6. Free decent Wi-Fi is common at most hotel and restaurants, making it
somewhat possible to have an online business here although the signal wavers throughout the day.  It sure does beat the old "dial up" internet.

7. Ceremonies are still being done, which is encouraging, but is it just my
imagination that the offerings given at the family home temples, are done in a simplified version, that is....in a rush??   I can certainly understand how time consuming it is to make the offerings and do the daily offerings.  Due to
community pressure, the Balinese do not really have a choice about the many
hours a day they spend in making and performing the rituals. If they don't
conform with the offerings, it  would be frowned upon and they would have
bad karma.